Chemical vs. Physical Exfoliation

There are two ways to exfoliate the skin – chemical exfoliation and physical exfoliation.

Why exfoliate your skin?

Skin cells regenerate at least once a month approximately; however, as we age or other factors such as exposure to UV, can delay this process. Exfoliating helps to slough off dead skin cells and regenerate new cells coming up from the bottom layer of the epidermis, leaving healthier skin. Exfoliating can help anything from fading sun damage, improving texture, improving acne, and preventing breakouts, to providing a healthy glow. With continued use, skin will become smoother, more evenly toned, appear healthier and youthful. However too much use can disrupt your skin’s natural barrier. Exfoliating at home is recommended 1-2 times per week. Professional chemical peels are recommended once a month or on a seasonal basis, outside of summer peak.

Chemical exfoliation uses topical formulations containing ingredients such as enzymes, alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) and/or beta hydroxy acid (BHA) to remove outer layer of skin and dead skin cells. They work by separating the bonds that keep your skin cells together. Chemical exfoliants come in varying concentrations. The strength (or depth of skin removed) can vary from mild to aggressive based on the concentration of the acids in the product. Some are gentler on the skin than others, in other words some are penetrate the skin less than others.

Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) – this class includes options such as glycolic, malic, lactic, mandelic, and citric. More often than not they are fruit derived; however, they can be produced artificially. These classifications of acids are commonly known to improve skin texture.

Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs) – this class of acids are oil soluble, meaning they penetrate through pores relatively easily, more so than AHAs. They consist of salicylic acid and tropic acid. They can be considered more appropriate for unclogging pores, removing acne-causing sebum, and improving acne.

Physical (sometimes referred to as mechanical or manual) exfoliation is essentially scrubbing your outer most layer of skin to help remove dead skin cells. It can involve scrubbing with a product that contains small granules, or sugar, or tools such as a brush, gloves or a sponge. This method is known to be limiting in its results as these do not penetrate the skin as deeply as chemical exfoliants but also, they can be viewed as too harsh for the skin. They also may cause increase sensitivity for people with already sensitive skin.

Products that can provide chemical exfoliation are anything from cleansers, toners, serums, creams, at home light peels to professional chemical peels.