What is Microneedling?
Microneedling, also known as collagen induction therapy (CIT), is a minimally invasive procedure that uses a handheld device containing very fine needles to create controlled micro-injures in the skin for the purpose of skin rejuvenation. These controlled micro-injuries trigger the skin’s natural repair processes, stimulating collagen and elastin production. Over the past several years, it has increased in popularity due to its ability to improve skin texture, fine lines, wrinkles, firmness, and to diminish scars, pore size, and stretch marks. It can also be used to increase hair growth on the scalp.
Microneedling is administered in various ways. One of the most well-known are dermal rollers, which are cylindrical drums covered in microneedles that are rolled over the skin. Similarly, a dermal stamp punctures a specific area using a stamping motion. In 2010, the mechanical microneedling pen was introduced, dramatically boosting the number of micro-punctures in the same amount of time. This latter device is acclaimed for its precision and ability to reach more difficult areas of the face.
One of the greatest benefits of microneedling is the broad range of application. Microneedling can be used anywhere on the body to improve texture, reduce scarring, and diminish the look of discolouration.
Who is a Good Candidate for Microneedling?
Microneedling is a relatively simple and fast method for safely treating wrinkles, fine lines, and scars. Because the epidermis remains intact, the procedure can be repeated safely and is also suited to regions where laser treatments and chemical peels are not typically performed, such as around the eyes and mouth, hands, and chest. This makes microneedling a preferred treatment for nearly everyone. Fitzpatrick skin types V-VI should consult with an experienced practitioner prior to receiving medical grade microneedling (1.0 mm – 3 mm) to avoid triggering side effects such as pigmentation.
How Does Microneedling Work?
Simply put, microneedling is a method of triggering the natural repair response of skin. The needles on a microneedling device puncture the skin to create a controlled skin injury. Each puncture of the needle creates a microscopic channel, or empty space. The skin recognizes this channel as tissue loss and begins to produce collagen and elastin to “fill” the channel. Collagen, is the main structural protein in skin responsible for sustaining skin integrity, firmness, and elasticity. New collagen synthesis process can take anywhere from 3-6 months. After a microneedling treatment your skin is still healing and producing collagen and elastin within the 4 week period.
When opting for microneedling treatment, it is important to consider the length of the needle being used, as this determines the depth and scope of the treatment. Needle sizes start at 0.1 mm, which only affects the epidermis (the outermost layer of the skin), and can range up to 3.0 mm, thus affecting the deepest layer of the skin (the reticular dermis). Lengths between 0.1 mm and 0.3 mm are used for more superficial, cosmetic purposes such as increasing the penetration of topical serums. Wrinkles and fine lines are addressed with needles ranging from 0.5 mm – 1.5 mm. More invasive procedures use needle lengths from 1.5 mm up to 3 mm to reduce scarring, wrinkles and stretch marks.
In office treatments should only be done every 4-6 week intervals. How often one can microneedle at home with a dermal roller or dermal stamp will demand entirely on the needle length. At home treatments will not provide the same results in the same amount of time as in office treatments.
What Will I Experience During my Microneedling Treatment?
In-office microneedling treatments can take anywhere from 30 minutes to an hour depending upon the area being treated. The length of the needle will affect whether there will be any discomfort or bleeding and if numbing cream will need to be applied to maximize patient comfort. Your skincare professional will then roll the microneedling device over your skin to create tiny punctures. The sensation is often described as feeling “prickly”.
Immediately after treatment, your skin may experience redness and minor swelling and feel like a stinging, sunburn sensation. These effects generally subside within a day, but can take up to one week to fully resolve and heal. Since your skin is more sensitive following a procedure, it is highly recommended to avoid sun exposure immediately after.
When Should I Get a Microneedling Treatment Done?
As with most in-office procedures, microneedling will increase your skin’s sensitivity to the sun. It is best to schedule microneedling sessions during times when sun exposure will be minimal.
When scheduling your procedure, it is important to remember that while you may see results after one session, it is generally recommended that microneedling be completed in a series of 2-6 treatments every 4-6 weeks, followed by a maintenance program. The frequency of treatments depends upon the desired effect and needle length used.
Feel free to reach out if you have any questions if you are thinking of starting an at home microneedling plan or venturing in-office for a professional treatment.
